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Jay's Surfing / Bodyboarding Blog

The School of Surfing?

Thursday August 14, 2008
Uhg! School is coming back around for the youngsters and the days of free flowing days at the beach riding waves and lying in the sand under the summer sun are quickly coming to an end. But surfing isn't the stuff of pariahs, hippies, and maniacs anymore. Surfing is a sport these days with all the trappings of Pop Warner and little league. Ever heard of the NSL? The rambling beach rats of yesterday are fast becoming the meal tickets of tomorrow...sponsored at 7 years old and traveling the globe as a pre-teen...with hopes of making big bank on the deck of a thruster by 20. Is it a natural progression that all sports experience or a manipulation by little league parents who just happen to be surfers? Is there anything wrong with pushing your little one to compete if he/she enjoys it? Shoot, some kids thrive on competition and the thrill of winning. It's Darwinism I think.

But it's the bigger picture that makes some cringe. Surfing at its core was always a free form artistic expression that cannot be quantified, graded, or all fenced in by rules. Sounds a lot like school or politics or something which surfing was meant to be an escape from. Another idea is that competitive surfing is a viable option for kids who are without focus or direction. The truth is that surfing is all things to all people, but should always be fun and enriching to the spirit. Without those qualities, surfing is just like any activity (which maybe it is...I mean doesn't a tennis player have his/her own style and get a blast of stoke from scoring?), and as with any real dilemma, we are really left with questions because only closed minds find easy answers. Surfing is more complex than that, and in essence more simple. Did I just blow your mind? Probably not; however, kids are surfing and competing at extremely young ages (my own 7 year-old is paddling in to waves on his own and I'm stoked). Maybe it's all a non-issue, but I always thought that school and surfing were very different beasts, but they seem to be on a collision course.

Surfing Movie of my Nightmare

Monday August 11, 2008

Okay, I have joked about Hollywood surf flicks in the past. Ya know...the campy fun of Point Break, the utter gut spasms induced by In God's Hands, my unabashed praise of the sentimental awesomeness of North Shore and, of course, how the cartoon characters in Surf's Up are probably Hollywood's most realistic surfers yet. I dug Big Wednesday and savored every cinematic moment of The Endless Summer. I have stacks of surf vids that range from Searching for Tom Curren, The Occumentary, all the old Billabong flicks like Surf into Summer leading all the way to all the Taylor Steele shred fests. Whew! That was a long way to go to establish the fact that I have been exposed to a sea of surf-related cinema in my day. However, Matt McConaughey's new attempt to drop into the Hollywood surf cess pool looks to be a real stank burger. Of course, I am basing this simply on the trailer (and Willie Nelson is in it), so I could always be wrong. But probably not. Check out the clip above of Surfer Dude and judge for yourself. However, this pile of "dude" doo isn't the only major surfing release on the horizon. Kelly Slater is looking to add something more to his already endless wave riding media accomplishments by starring in a 3-D IMAX surf travel explosion entitled the Ultimate Wave.

The question is, of course, which film will pack the house and allow Joe Movie-goer a chance to see the artistc beauty and adventure of the true surfing experience. What do you think?

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